The root that enhances the flavor of roasted meats found a home in the New World.
History—Or Lack Thereof
Unlike chile peppers, black pepper, or even ginger, the history of horseradish is very sketchy. It played no role in the history of the spice trade, and was mostly confined to central Europe and the midwestern United States in later times. It was first cultivated relatively recently, probably around the time of Christ, and there is no mention of it in classical literature. Some writers who insist that it is mentioned classically are probably confusing horseradish with the black radish, which was known to the Greeks and Romans. The origin of cultivated horseradish could be Hungary or Caspian Sea region but by the 13th century it was established in the wild in central Europe. In 1542, Fuchsius, in his Historia Stirpium, gave the first description of the horseradish root used as a condiment. Use of the wild and eventually cultivated root spread throughout Europe and by 1650, cooks in both Britain and France were using horseradish regularly in sauces.
Horseradish in the U.S.
In the United States, by 1840 horseradish was reported growing wild near Boston, Massachusetts and by 1850 commercial cultivation of it began when European immigrants planted farms in the Midwest. Ten years later, sales of bottled horseradish began, and it was one of the first convenience foods. In 1869, the H. J. Heinz Company started packing processed horseradish in clear bottles. By the 1890s, a thriving horseradish industry had developed on the Illinois side of the Mississippi River near Collinsville.
By 1946, horseradish cultivation had spread to Eau Claire, Wisconsin and the Tulelake region of northern California. In 2000, 6 million gallons of prepared horseradish was produced in the U.S. annually from 24 million pounds of harvested roots. Horseradish is now grown on about 3,000 acres in Illinois, Wisconsin, New Jersey, California, and Virginia in the U.S., as well as in many European countries.
The Plant and Its Power
Horseradish, or Armoracia rusticana, belongs to the crucifer family that also includes radishes and mustard. There are two types of horseradish, common and Bohemian. The common types have broad, crinkled leaves and are considered superior, while the Bohemians have narrow, smooth leaves and better disease resistance.
When the root is cut, peeled, or scraped, cells are broken and two components, sinigrin and myrosin, combine to form the volatile oil allyl isothiocyanate (AITC), which is identical to the oil from black mustard seeds. The result is an intensely pungent aroma and flavor that goes to the back of the throat and attacks the nasal membranes. In fact, AITC is so pungent that it can kill the bacteria Listeria and E. coli. But AITC is not heat resistant, so it loses its pungency rapidly in when placed in hot foods, and is not stable in cold water. But adding vinegar or other acidic ingredients like lemon juice greatly retards the hydrolysis of AITC and keeps the horseradish pungent.
A good source for horseradish products is here.
To search for horseradish recipes, go here.
